If you’re looking for a “perfect blue dress shirt,” consider Thomas Mason’s Goldline End-on-End in blue. I have had one for two years, made by Proper Cloth, and here’s my review. [Use my code MUSINGS10 for 10% off your first order]
End-on-end vs Pinpoint or Twill
I’m on record as saying that broadcloth/poplin is my favorite shirt fabric. End-on-end is simply a broadcloth using different color yarns to give the appearance of texture. Read the full post linked for why, but the summary is that it’s smooth, silky against the skin, and provides a pleasingly simple backdrop against which the other textures of your outfit can stand out.
Both twill and pinpoint make for good shirts as well. Twill in particular is also quite soft against the skin. Pinpoint’s benefit is that it has a subtle texture of its own from its compact oxford weave.
I prefer end-on-end over them both because functionally, it works so well under all types of other outer layers. Unlined sportcoats in fuzzy wool don’t catch on it; sweaters don’t either, both of which are more of a problem with pinpoint. And visually I just prefer the simple, plain look of end-on-end (or even plain broadcloth with no visual “texture”) to the visual pattern of twill’s diagonal lines.
At least that’s how I feel when thinking about a plain-blue dress shirt. Of course, if you add patterns like stripes or checks, or the shirt is intended to be worn more casually, the calculus changes.
Goldline vs. Luxury range
Goldline is Thomas Mason’s most expensive range of fabrics available at Proper Cloth. It’s about $300 for a shirt (a small price increase from before the tariff craze of April 2025).
TM’s “Luxury” range is one notch below that—$225 for a shirt. They make an end-on-end in blue in that range, too, linked here.
Is the additional $80 for Goldline worth the extra price? If so, why?
Two reasons I think it’s worth it:
- The color is better. It’s a blue-like-the-sky color that’s cheerful, not dingy. The luxury end-on-end is more gray. This was my primary motivator when deciding between the two and seeing them in person in swatch form.
- The shirt is softer against the skin. End-on-end being a form of plain weave broadcloth means it is smooth. Cheaper broadcloths can feel paper-y and stiff, being less comfortable against the skin. The Goldline end-on-end feels nicer and more comfortable than the luxury line in my experience. Both are very good in practice, but the goldline is better between the two.
Fabric longevity
In two years of regular wear, the Goldline has held up quite well. I wash my own shirts in cold water with a medium spin cycle, RINSE THEM A LOT, hang them to dry, and iron them myself. Under these circumstances, you can see current photos of the Goldline shirt’s collar and cuffs—the primary spot of wear on a shirt.
I have worn this shirt regularly, but not necessarily weekly—I’d guess twice per month on average over the past 2 years. Of that, I’d guess it was worn about 40% of the time with a tie, and 60% without a tie. Any shirt worn once a week or more and washed after every wear will break down over time, and possibly faster depending on what you do for a living (e.g. my brother is a dentist, so his collars get frayed much quicker from leaning down over patients and the whiskers on his neck rubbing on the collar). Collars will wear faster when fully buttoned up with a tie, as well.
Only where the left cuff touches my watch is any fraying observed.
Given how well it still looks after ≈2x a month wear for 2 years (e.g. it still has probably another year of similar wear in it), I happily recommend it even at the high price.
Conclusion
While there are less expensive options for end-on-end and broadcloth/poplin shirting from Proper Cloth or other makers, if you can afford the price, highly consider doing the Thomas Mason Goldline End-on-End in blue. It’s my favorite of all the shirts in my closet. I wear it fully dressed up in a suit and tie, and with jeans dressed down under a crewneck sweater.
Don’t forget to use my code MUSINGS10 for 10% off your first order. And consider doing that first order on something beautiful like a TM Goldline shirt—the absolute dollar amount discount is bigger, and given Proper Cloth’s remake policy, you’re getting a great guarantee for a great fit.
Read my post with design guidelines and size considerations for Proper Cloth here.
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