Natalino’s tailoring is among my favorite, most recommended out there. At its price point, it’s a bit of a unicorn. Being made in Italy at a half canvas quality isn’t so much what makes it special, moreso that its aesthetic reflects a more traditional viewpoint of tailoring. I see a lot of made-in-Italy tailoring that’s the same price as this or cheaper, but it’s almost always designed to be, I assume, more mainstream in appeal. For a long time now that’s meant short jackets, skinny fit and narrow lapels. As trends towards bigger fits swing the other way, I won’t be surprised to see boxy jackets that fit poorly instead. (Bad Bunny’s half-time show Zara DB jacket comes to mind.)
Natalino on the other hand attempts to bring the look you’d expect from the bespoke Neapolitan tailoring tradition within reach. Its hallmark wide, straight lapels, 3-roll-2 buttoning stance, dual vents and soft natural shoulder are all part of that look. Where it brings its own personality to bear is in how it’s sized and some of the other choices made. The jackets fit wide in the shoulders and relaxed in body. The length is classic but not long. The patch pockets are shaped conservatively (not fancifully, like the cognac snifter shape you might find on some Neapolitan jackets), and the breast pocket is only barely curved, not the fully boat-shaped barchetta shape made famous by Neapolitan tailors. Its buttoning point is low, which in combination with all of the above details gives it a low center of gravity, with a relaxed attitude about it.
If you’re new to tailoring it might sound wild to describe such subtle details as having such a big effect, but once you train your eye on details of distinction between tailoring traditions you begin to see how they make a difference.
This post is not a full length review of Natalino—that can be found here. I also have a no-holds-barred tailoring scorecard for paid subscribers available here if you want a little more in terms of brand-to-brand comparisons.
But this post is a 2026 review of their double breasted jacket specifically (this navy woollen flannel one from F/W 2025).
I’ve owned a few Natalino jackets and have loved them all. All single breasted. But getting a DB silhouette right is tricky. The width and shape of the lapel is tricky, as is the angle of the peak at the end of the lapel itself. In the early and mid-2010s during the #menswear movement, peak lapels were cut straight, a little narrow, with a peak pointing upward toward the collarbone.
When The Armoury developed their own cuts with Ring Jacket who makes their house label tailoring, Mark Cho described how he took the RJ DB cut and lowered the peak to make it point outward more toward the deltoid/should instead of upward toward the sky. For a while SuitSupply’s peak lapel had a pronounced belly with the peak pointing more upward.
If a peak lapel is cut really wide it can feel like a landing strip for an airplane. If it’s cut too narrow it’s anemic. Too straight and it can feel like bat-wings, and too much of a belly can feel like cosplay. And none of this is to mention the buttoning stance, both in which button is designed to be closed and how the buttons are spaced.
A 6-button jacket that buttons in the middle buttons (called a 6×2 stance) is the norm, but you’ll also see historical DBs especially in the 90s where it’s designed to button at the bottom button (6×1). The spacing between buttons is important, too. Too narrow can feel chintzy somehow in my mind while too wide might look like a wrap coat or something.
Natalino’s peak DB strikes a great balance, avoiding all those pitfalls in my opinion. The lapel is not totally straight, but has a very slight curve to it. The peak points essentially right up toward the end point of the shoulder. That draws your eye outward and upward together, not just up or just out, emphasizing visually the width of the shoulders. The peak has a sharp angle at the end. Last winter, the peak on their jackets was rounded, but that was an anomaly, and going forward is not a design you should expect from them. The buttoning stance is a typical 6×2, which is a good middle of the road choice that makes it more broadly appealing.
Everyday wearability
Look, wearing a sportcoat is already a choice in the era we live in. Making it a DB is even more so because a DB jacket feels dressier than a single breasted. If wearing a sportcoat puts you in a certain echelon of daily dressing, wearing a DB jacket bumps that up maybe an extra 15% (don’t check my math on this nonsense analogy). It’s designed to be worn buttoned, and wearing it un-buttoned results in a lot of extra fabric flowing about in front. It’s a cool look (some would insist a DB should only be worn buttoned, and that is my preference, but reality dictates that’s not always the case) but that does create an impression. Second, the peak lapels are just really out there—literally. Already, wearing a single breasted Neapolitan jacket with wide, straight lapels is a statement—but making them pointy is like shouting for people to notice.
But wait a minute—isn’t that the point? Committing these thoughts to a review like this is an exercise in remembering why I dress the way I dress: because I like how it looks and how it makes me feel, not in how much extra attention it does or does not get me from others. It’s not like I’m talking about wearing something foreign like a kurta. Yes, a sportcoat is dressy compared to most peoples’ everyday attire, but it’s not like a language they’ve never heard before.
Or to use another metaphor, wearing a tailored jacket is not coloring outside the lines of the established culture. What we wear does say something about us, and tailoring brings with it a lot of connotations that you may or may not want to embrace (hence questions like “why are you dressed up? Do you have a job interview today?”). But for my everyday circumstances, tailored clothing is still well within the everyday language of clothing, and is appropriate. If that describes your environment, then embrace it, I say!
As far as this review goes, it should be clear I wholeheartedly recommend Natalino in general, and in particular their DB jacket.
